The Exfoliating Ingredient You Need to Know About if You Have Sensitive Skin
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If you have sensitive or sensitised skin, you’ve probably written off acids as something only other people can use. Fake news!
The truth is, there is an acid for you and its name is Mandelic.
Although it has been used in formulations for years (mostly as part of a blend of acids), it’s now having its moment in the spotlight thanks to people finally appreciating its gentle-but-effective approach.
Let’s get to know this quiet achiever a little better, shall we?
What Exactly Is Mandelic Acid?
So, is mandelic acid good for sensitive skin?
Mandelic Acid is part of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) family – which accounts for most chemical exfoliants.
However its difference, as Prudvi Mohan Kaka, Chief Scientific Officer of DECIEM explains, is that it “offers superficial dermal exfoliation that is gentler than other alpha hydroxy acids”.
And that all comes down to its molecular weight, “mandelic acid is 152.1 daltons which is larger than other AHAs (for example, glycolic acid is 76.0 daltons),” he explains.
What this means is that it penetrates the skin slower, which naturally makes it gentler (because you’re not getting a big hit all at once) and is generally suitable for most skin types.
How Is Mandelic Acid Different From Other Acids?
The acid family has many members, and they all work different magic for the skin. So, where does Mandelic fit in? Prudvi explains.
AHAs: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (where Mandelic Acid sits) are water soluble and exfoliate the outer layers of skin targeting uneven skin tone and texture. “Generally AHAs have smaller molecular weights in comparison to PHAs and BHAs, making them more suitable for experienced direct acid users,” he says.
BHAs: Beta hydroxy acids on the other hand are lipid (oil) soluble and can penetrate the pores of the skin to clear out congestion, which is why Prudvi says they’re often suited to blemish-prone skin.
PHAs: A relative newcomer to the game, Polyhydroxy acids exfoliate in a similar way to AHA and BHA for more even skin tone, but have a larger molecular weight so have been found to be gentler.
Mandelic Acid Benefits.
Sounds pretty good — right?
So why should you be reaching for it in your routine and how does mandelic acid work?
AHA’s in general promote the natural exfoliation process, breaking down the bonds that hold the dead skin cells together so it can shed and make way for fresh skin cells.
In that way, Mandelic Acid can target skin irregularities, texture and tone.
But remember, “acids with high molecular weight will have a milder approach to exfoliation and require more time to bring about the same effects as acids with low molecular weights, such as glycolic acid,” says Prudvi.
So the key here is to be patient!
Know results will come, but it may take time, and the low irritation factor will be better for you if you have reactive skin.
How To Use Mandelic Acid in Your Skincare Routine.
So now you know why it’s good, but how does it fit in your routine?
You’ll find it in various formulations (masks, serums, cleansers, moisturisers), but from an exfoliant perspective, it’s best used as a treatment step at night (remembering that AHA’s can make your skin photosensitive).
Like all acids, it pairs best with hydration ingredients for layering so think Hyaluronic Acid, squalane or ceramides to restore moisture loss and comfort the skin.
And one final word from Prudvi, “ensure you are not over-exfoliating, as this can result in a compromised skin barrier which can additionally lead to increased transepidermal water loss.”
Translation: go easy, so your skin doesn’t freak out and overcompensate by getting dry, red, itchy and flaky — because then you’ll have a whole new set of skin worries.
Best Mandelic Acid Products.
Keen to try mandelic acid? Start with these mandelic acid-infused products:
1. The Ordinary Mandelic Acid.
Helps promote a smooth, radiant complexion. If you have sensitive skin and glycolic acid is too harsh for your skin, this product is perfect for you. The Mandelic Acid in the formula makes this exfoliating serum more gentle than other AHA serums. Is also cruelty-free, vegan and alcohol-free.
2. Medik8 Surface Radiance Cleanse.
Infused with AHA and BHAs, this cleanser gently breaks down impurities, exfoliates dead skin and clears blocked pores to help prevent breakouts and promote a smooth, bright complexion.
With continued use, this foaming exfoliating cleanser will help soften the appearance of fine lines and improve skin texture. Is cruelty-free, artificial fragrance-free and alcohol-free.
3. Beauté Pacifique Bio Dermabrasion Peeling Wipes.
Luminous, soft skin in a swipe. These gentle exfoliating wipes contain AHAs, PHAs, niacinamide and other calming ingredients to help eliminate dead skin cells and even out the complexion.
For best results swipe a wipe across your face once or twice a week for glowing skin.
4. mesoestetic pure renewing mask.
Professional-quality masking that combines both physical and chemical exfoliation and is suited for those with oily and blemish-prone skin seeking a calmer and more refined complexion.
Also cleanses the pores to reduce future breakouts, and minimise the appearance of current blemishes. Is also non-comedogenic and dermatologically tested.
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