Midlife Skin Truths From a Dermal Clinician and What Skincare You Should Be Investing In
Yads Cauchi is a Dermal Clinician, Nutritionist (BHSc, MSc) and Beauty Journalist. She's also a mum of four. Evidence based skin health and nutrition are her thing and she works from her own skin clinic based in Canberra - you can find her there, or on Instagram and TikTok @yadscauchiskin.
Your skin midlife is going to change, and it’s a shift you need to start understanding because all of the products (or lack thereof) you might’ve used when you were young may not be right for your skin in this era.
You see, skin doesn't just magically “age overnight”.
The reality is, your skin changes over time. Hormones shift, barrier function weakens, and the products that once felt balancing, can start to feel stripping.
So, we have to move on.
Why Your Old Routine Stops Working
You see, the biggest contributors to a routine that stops working, that I see in clinic, are over-exfoliation and underusing hydration in a routine. (When skin is slowly losing hydration over time.)
Which means if you just keep doing what you’ve always done, you’re essentially trying to treat your skin like it hasn’t changed…when it has.
Which is also why your makeup might be sitting funny, or fine lines might be starting to pop up and become more noticeable.
Midlife Skin Changes
What skin changes might we be noticing as we age? The main ones are…
Pigmentation
As we age, pigmentation tends to become more noticeable. And for a lot of people, this skin change may be the first thing they pick up on. Or at least an uneven skin tone.
Hormonal shifts can trigger skin concerns like melasma too, and sun exposure from years ago often starts to surface in your 30s and 40s which means you might need a more targeted approach to manage all of this. Particularly with the right laser and skincare routine.
Collagen Loss And Barrier Function Become Non-Negotiables
And yes, collagen loss does start to happen with age… but slowly.
What you’ll notice first is a subtle loss of firmness, rather than anything dramatic. It doesn’t happen overnight!
At the same time, your skin barrier will become everything. It’s what keeps your skin hydrated, calm, and able to tolerate the actives you’re using.
So it’s important to make sure your moisturisers are hard hitting enough and potentially add in stronger actives coupled with enough hydration to re-balance your skin. Obviously this will be different on a case by case basis.
How Does Your Skin Change as You Age
A few more skin changes…
1. Our skin cell turnover slows down which = dullness and uneven tone.
2. Reduced collagen + elastin production also = laxity, fine lines.
3. Our skin barrier can become more fragile which = dehydration, sensitivity.
4. Oil production can drop (but not always evenly, hence breakouts can happen).
So if your skin suddenly feels different, drier, more reactive, not responding the way it used to… you’re not imagining it.
Meaning, this is where skin health becomes less about doing more, and more about reassessing.
Simplifying your routine, supporting the barrier, and being more selective with actives is often what gets things back on track.
What’s Actually Worth Investing In
Best products for ageing skin? As a dermal clinician, let me tell you what’s worth it, and what’s not…
Non-negotiables: SPF, gentle cleanser, moisturiser, retinoid (if tolerated) and an antioxidant serum in the morning. Peptides can also be a good addition.
- SPF: Avene Sunsitive Oil Control Sunscreen is a great sunscreen for mattifying and/or more oily/combination skins. Ultraviolette Supreme Screen is a great option for dry skins and if sensitive Ultraviolette Future Fluid is a nice product to try.
- Gentle Cleanser: PCA Skin Facial Wash, is a cleanser that contains a tiny bit of lactic acid but is great for normal/combination/ dull skin and any of the Hydrating Cerave cleansers are also great budget friendly alternatives for more sensitive skins.
- Antioxidant serum: Medik8 Niacinamide Peptides is a gentle antioxidant alternative for skins that can’t tolerate a vitamin C and/or are experiencing breakouts, Skinceuticals C E Ferulic is a gold standard vitamin C and great for boosting collagen production/managing ageing skin.
- Retinoid: Cosmedix Elite X-Age is a very gentle moisturiser with a retinoid component. Great for beginners/ skins that tend to struggle with vitamin A. More seasoned vitamin A users can try the Medik8 Crystal Retinal range; the strengths start at 1 and go to 20.
- Moisturiser: Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore is going to do a heavy hitting job on moisturising and hydrating your skin properly through all peri and menopausal changes , Aspect Restorative 8 Night Cream is a more budget friendly alternative and a beautiful night cream.
- In-clinic treatments: Also in the “worth it” category are targeted clinical treatments. Lasers for pigment management (I love a pico), and lasers/needling and chemical peels for collagen stimulation. The best treatment for your skin will always be determined in clinic.
Finally...
Skip and be cautious about trend-based actives, over-layering and any “miracle” products.
I always say look for the evidence. Ingredients might be trending, but that doesn’t mean they work. And when something looks too good to be true… it probably is.
So if you are deciding on what to pop into your routine and if your budget doesn’t allow for a lot of movement, stick to the basics, because if you are noticing your skin change with age, don’t do more.
Instead, focus on understanding what actually works, and let go of what doesn’t!
Catch up on more of Yad's expert skincare advice below:
