Glycolic Acid vs Salicylic Acid: Which One’s Better for Your Skin?
Amy Clark is Adore Beauty's former Senior Editor and co-host of Skincare School the podcast (and self-appointed beauty road-tester!). Amy's worked as a journalist, beauty editor and podcaster for several years, previously writing and talking about all things beauty at Mamamia and You Beauty. When she's not writing honest, no BS product reviews and taking selfies 'for work', you'll find Amy eating halloumi in a hair towel turban and... taking more selfies.
Did you read the one about how exfoliating is the most satisfying (and easiest) thing you can do for glowier skin?
Me too! Well, that's because I wrote the article...
But ask any beauty editor or skin expert and they'll tell you to get an exfoliating acid on your face, stat.
If your skin's looking dull, dry, dehydrated and textured, or you're feeling the effects of maskne and hyperpigmentation (or all of the above), using a chemical exfoliator containing acids suited to your skin can help.
Glycolic acid and salicylic acid are the two main players... so, how do you know which one's right for your skin type and skin concerns?
Keep scrolling for a simple glycolic acid vs salicylic acid breakdown.
We'll cover what these acids do, how they're different and the best new glycolic acid and salicylic acid products to try.
What is Chemical Exfoliation?
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells using skincare products.
It's a long story, but a build up of dead skin cells can can make skin look and feel dull and rough.
Our skin naturally turns over skin cells - generally, we shed one layer of dead skin a day - but this rate declines with age.
Exfoliating speeds up this process to reveal fresh skin cells, giving the skin a radiant glowy appearance.
Glycolic Acid vs Salicylic Acid.
There are two main types of exfoliation:
- Physical or manual exfoliation, think face scrubs, cleansing cloths or flannels.
- Chemical exfoliation using products containing mild acids and/or enzymes.
The most common exfoliating acids you'll hear about in skin care are *drum roll*... glycolic acid and salicylic acid.
Both skincare ingredients effectively exfoliate the skin, but they're not quite the same.
Which one you choose will depend on your skin concern (what you're trying to address) and your skin type.
Not sure if you're normal, dry, combination or oily? Learn about skin types in this episode of the Skincare School podcast below.
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (or AHA for short).
There are a bunch of AHAs including lactic acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and polyhydroxy acids (or PHAs), but glycolic is the most popular because it delivers radiant, smooth-looking skin overnight.
Some even say they wake up with a new face after exfoliating with glycolic acid the night before. True story.
You can learn more about glycolic acid and other AHAs in this YouTube video below.
A few other glycolic acid benefits and facts:
- Glycolic acid has a small molecular structure that can penetrate the surface layers of the skin.
- Because it exfoliates the top layers of the skin, results are visible quite quickly.
- This acid works by gently dissolving the 'glue' that cements dead skin cells together.
- Glycolic acid can be used to address skin congestion, dullness, uneven skin tone and the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
- It's well tolerated by most skin types, and is also useful if your skin is dehydrated because it helps to increase the absorption of your other products.
- If you have sensitised skin, lactic acid might be more suitable because the larger molecular structure can't penetrate as deep into the skin.
Best Glycolic Acid Products.
You'll find glycolic acid in AHA cleansers and toners, exfoliating serums and resurfacing night creams.
Alpha-H's cult Liquid Gold will always be an excellent option.
Want to try something new? Here are two glycolic acid skincare products I'm loving right now:
1. IT Cosmetics Hello Results Glycolic Oil and Peel.
What:
A two-in-one overnight glycolic acid peel and nourishing face oil.
Main ingredients:
Glycolic acid effectively resurfaces skin texture and minimises the appearance of fine lines and pores.
That combined with argan and meadowfoam seed oils, hyaluronic acid and glycerin keep the skin hydrated to make it near-impossible to burn your face off.
Why it's great:
Don't let the word 'peel' scare you. This one's gentle enough that you can use it every other night to wake up with a juicy radiance.
It has a silky, thin water-like consistency that's instantly cooling and sinks into the skin after a minute or two.
The scent is subtle but clinical, and depending on your experience with active skin care, you'll feel the 'it's working' tingle.
How to use it in your skincare routine:
Shake the bottle to combine the two formulas before applying one to two pumps at night onto cleansed skin.
New to glycolic acid, or worried about irritation? Buffer your peel by applying your favourite hydrating moisturiser on top. Go to bed. Wake up. Glow.
2. SALT BY HENDRIX G-Juice Glycolic Brightening Toner.
What:
As the name suggests, it's a brightening and hydrating liquid exfoliant.
Main ingredients:
This glycolic toner also contains antioxidant and hydrating ingredients.
Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, propanediol and aloe vera aim to soothe and hydrate, and antioxidant and vitamin C-rich desert lime, rainforest lime and caviar lime (zesty!!!) help to brighten the appearance of skin.
Why it's great:
If you're looking for the easiest way to slip glycolic acid into your routine, G Juice is it.
Stunning blue glass packaging aside, this toner is affordable, ridiculously easy to use and suitable for almost anyone (see above for super sensitive skin options).
It hardly feels or smells like anything on the skin, but you can see the surface level brightening, glowy results instantly. No major tingling. It's a good time.
How to use it in your skincare routine:
Every other night (or once a week if you're concerned about irritation), drench a cotton pad and swipe over cleansed skin.
Once it's fully absorbed, follow with a hydrating serum, moisturiser and/or face oil.
Now, moving onto salicylic acid...
What is Salicylic Acid?
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (or BHA for short).
Like glycolic acid, salicylic acid can exfoliate the skin, but its main job is to breakdown oily blockages within the skin - including blackheads - and regulate sebum/oil production.
If glycolic acid is a sanding tool, think of salicylic acid as an excavator. But for your pores.
You can learn more about salicylic acid and BHAs in this YouTube video below.
A few other salicylic acid benefits and facts:
- Salicylic acid is also a small molecule, but different to glycolic acid, it's oil-soluble.
- This means salicylic acid can dislodge buildups of dead skin cells, oil and debris within the pores and deeper layers of the skin.
- This ingredient can address blackheads and blemishes, regulate excess oil production, and minimise the appearance of pores.
- Exfoliating with a salicylic acid chemical exfoliant is particularly great for oily, congested or acne-prone skin types.
- Dry and sensitised skin types may find salicylic acid too harsh for use over the whole face - I like to apply only to blackhead-prone areas like my chin and nose.
Best Salicylic Acid Products.
Same as glycolic acid, there are so many salicylic acid cleansers, toners, serums and spot treatments to choose from.
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Micro Peeling Cleanser 200ml and Aspect Stop Spot - 12ml are two old favourites
But have you met these two new Korean skincare salicylic acid products?
1. COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser.
What:
An affordable daily exfoliating cleanser for anyone with oily, combination or blemish-prone skin that won't dry you out.
Side note, this is the same Korean skincare brand that makes my favourite pimple patches, and that viral snail mucin essence.
Main ingredients:
This cleanser contains 0.5 per cent salicylic acid, as well as tea tree oil, botanical plant extracts and hydrating glycerin.
Why it's great:
Exfoliating cleansers are so handy to keep in the shower. This one is cheap, cheerful and not at all stripping.
The cream texture has a strong tea tree oil scent. Add water and it foams lightly and transforms into a gentle milk consistency. It definitely leaves a matte finish, without making skin feel squeaky or too dry.
Plus, it's so versatile. Got oily, blemish-prone skin? Use it every night. Occasional hormonal blemishes hanging out on your chin? Sub it into your PM skincare routine as needed.
If it's too much for your face, you can even use this on your body to manage body pimples (butt-ne and back-ne, anyone?). Did I say it's $25?!
How to use it in your skincare routine:
Work a pea-sized amount into damp skin and massage, focussing on congested areas and avoiding the eyes before rinsing off.
Can be used on its own, or as a second cleanser after removing makeup with an oil cleanse or micellar water.
2. COSRX One Step Original Clear Pads.
What:
A tub of 70 exfoliating swipey pads pre-soaked in a salicylic acid solution.
Main ingredients:
These pads contain willow bark water, a type of natural BHA, as well as anti-inflammatory tea tree extract, and skin-soothing allantoin and panthenol (vitamin B5).
Why it's great:
Show me an easier exfoliating product to use. I'll wait.
Even the laziest, most skincare-averse people can find the time to literally swipe one of these over prime blackhead and blemish real estate areas like your chin, nose, jawline and hairline.
Each of these cult K-beauty pads is soaked in enough exfoliating solution to sort out your whole face, so one pack will realistically last you nearly three months. That's roughly 50 cents per use. Bargain.
I will say, they have a very strong citrusy, astringent fragrance. But it does fade. And remember, 50 cents per use.
Again, you can swipe these over your thighs, bum, back and arms to help with body pimples, keratosis pilaris (chicken skin) and folliculitis.
How to use it in your skincare routine:
These are SO BLOODY EASY.
At night, sweep the embossed side of the pad over your face and neck. Flip the pad over and use the smooth side to finish. Follow with your hydrating products. Done.
Want to try an exfoliating product that contains a bit of both ingredients?
asap radiance serum with aha/bha 30ml is our best-selling glycolic acid and salicylic acid exfoliating serum for a reason. The formula also contains peptides, making it an all-rounder option for short-term glow and longer-term anti-ageing benefits.
A final but very important note on exfoliating:
Everyone should be applying sunscreen every day, but especially if you're using an exfoliating product in your evening skincare routine.
Be sure to read the label, apply enough sunscreen, and reapply as directed. Oh, and always seek shade, wear sunnies and protective clothing, you know the drill.
Want more expert skincare advice? Check out these articles below:
