As a dermal clinician, one of my favourite things about this job is being able to educate people on their skin, because the more you know the less likely you’re going to fall for the next skincare trend, right! Plus, every time I open my Instagram or TikTok question box, there are always floods of DMs.

Everything from “Why is my skin breaking out again?” to “Do I actually need eye cream?” to “Help… is this a purge or a breakout?” And honestly? I love it. 

Skin is confusing, the internet is loud, and sometimes you just want a straight answer from a dermal clinician who treats skin every single day, so I get it.  

Which is why for this month’s Beauty IQ feature, I have decided to hand the mic over to you. I put a call out to my community on Instagram and asked: What skin questions have been living rent-free in their head. Because while social media trends come and go (and some of them absolutely need to go), good skin education never stops.

So let’s go through some of the most FAQ’s that pop up time and time again and hopefully they help you too!

Peptides really are everywhere right now. So let me explain. They’re essentially short chains of amino acids, the same building blocks that make up collagen, elastin and keratin. So when you apply them topically, they act like little messengers that tell your skin to strengthen, repair and rebuild. 

What most people don’t realise though, is that not all peptides do the same thing. Some are signalling peptides that encourage collagen and elastin production, which is ideal for anyone wanting firmer, smoother skin. Others help support wound healing and barrier repair.

Then there are neurotransmitter peptides, which work by softening the look of expression lines. The category is huge, which is why every brand seems to be doing “their” version, but that doesn’t mean they’re all equal. If you want to know more I’ve actually deep-dived into this topic further here. 

The short answer: it depends entirely on your skin, your goals, and how consistent you are with your routine. Tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid, so it works faster; but that potency also means a higher chance of irritation, dryness, flaking, redness, and barrier disruption, especially if it’s introduced too quickly or used on already sensitised skin. However, it is great if your skin can tolerate it! 

Over-the-counter retinols, on the other hand, convert slowly into retinoic acid once applied to the skin. That slower process makes them gentler, and easier to stick with long-term, which is exactly why so many people get great results from them…because they’re used consistently! A well-formulated OTC retinol can absolutely improve texture, clarity, fine lines and glow. Try: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6.

So should you switch? If your skin is healthy, resilient, and you’ve already been using a high strength retinol or retinal consistently without issues, then tretinoin can be a great move (ideally introduced under guidance so you’re not battling unnecessary irritation.) But if you’re still working on barrier health, prone to redness, or inconsistent with active ingredients, then staying with an OTC retinol is not only perfectly fine… it’s often the better choice. Moral: the best retinoid is the one your skin can tolerate consistently, not the strongest one on the shelf!

“Korean skincare” isn’t inherently better… but it is a different philosophy, and that’s why it’s having such a moment. The strength of K-beauty has always been its innovation. Korean formulators tend to move faster than Western brands, experiment with new textures and delivery systems, and focus heavily on hydration and barrier support. That means you get products that feel cosmetically elegant and are often packed with soothing ingredients like centella, ginseng, snail mucin and fermented extracts. (Have explained this a little more on the Beauty IQ podcast).

But here’s the part people forget: “Korean skincare” isn’t one category. Just like Western skincare, it ranges from beautifully formulated, evidence-based products… to things that are trend-led and not clinically meaningful at all. Sheet masks, glass-skin routines and 10-step regimens make for great TikTok content, but more doesn’t always equal better, and your skin doesn’t suddenly become healthier just because a product is Korean. What Korean skincare does incredibly well though, is prioritise skin health in a gentle, consistent way. So if your skin barrier is sensitive, dehydrated, easily overwhelmed, or you simply love lightweight hydrating layers, K-beauty can be a nice addition.

You can’t permanently shrink your pore size, that part is genetic,  but you can make them look significantly smaller. Pores appear bigger when they’re clogged, when the surrounding skin is dehydrated, or when collagen levels drop with age. Using ingredients like salicylic acid, vitamin A, niacinamide and regular gentle exfoliation including clay can keep them clear and tighter-looking. Treatments like laser, peels and needling also help by boosting collagen. So while you can’t change the actual size, you can definitely improve how they look! Try: Aspect Exfoliating Clay Mask. 

If your skincare routine is solid but your skin still isn’t behaving, it usually means the trigger might not be a topical only issue. Stress, lack of sleep, hormones, diet and even illness can change how your skin functions. Sometimes it can also be a sign your barrier is quietly irritated from doing too much (actives, exfoliation, mixing products). In clinic, I always go back to basics: strip the routine right down, check lifestyle factors, and focus on hydration and barrier support. Happy skin is rarely about adding more… It's about finding out what’s quietly throwing it off.

I prefer my clients to cleanse both morning and evening. A  proper morning cleanse should never strip the skin, but it will help you start the day with a clean base.

Often, I think the reason people don’t like to cleanse in the morning is because they have the wrong cleanser for their skin. However, if your skin is really sensitive or dry and feels/looks better without cleansing in the morning then you do you. At the end of the day a healthy skin is all that matters, so if you prefer not to cleanse and your skin is healthy then obviously continue. 

I can’t give a blanket answer here because it really depends on your skin. Some people can comfortably use retinol 3–4 nights a week and exfoliate once, while others can only tolerate one or the other. Skin type, sensitivity, barrier health, the strength of your products, it all matters.

I’m forever telling my clients to listen to their skin, which is woo woo I know, but there is no perfect answer to this question for every skin because every skin tolerates actives differently, but if you’re still confused, a skin consultation will always help!