A Dermal Clinician’s Guide to Choosing the Right Face Mask for Your Skin Type
Yads Cauchi is a Dermal Clinician, Nutritionist (BHSc, MSc) and Beauty Journalist. She's also a mum of four. Evidence based skin health and nutrition are her thing and she works from her own skin clinic based in Canberra - you can find her there, or on Instagram and TikTok @yadscauchiskin.
Face masks are one of those skincare steps people either overdo… or don’t fully understand.
For some, they’re a luxe self-care moment. For others, a weekly ritual. And more often than not, in clinic I find they’re chosen based on what’s trending or what smells the nicest, which isn’t exactly how you get results.
The truth is, a face mask isn’t a must in your routine, but it can be a really effective way to support your skin when used properly. And like most things in skincare, the results come down to choosing the right one for your skin type and what your skin is going through at that moment.
Because your skin can shift with your hormones, your stress levels, your environment, and even how well you slept the night before.
So I like to tell my clients, instead of asking, "What's the best face mask?" a better question to ask is, "What does my skin actually need right now?”
Not all masks are created equal
Not all face masks are doing the same thing, and they’re definitely not all designed for your skin.
Masks fall into a few key categories: hydrating, clarifying, exfoliating, calming, and barrier-repair.
Each one has a specific role, and the key is learning to match the face mask to your skin concern. Making sense?
So let’s chat through how to figure that out.
Best Face Mask for Hydration
If your skin feels tight, dull or “off”... you need hydration.
This is probably the most common skin concern I see in clinic. Dehydrated skin doesn’t lack oil, it lacks water. Which is why your skin can feel tight and look flat.
This is where a well-formulated hydrating mask can actually make a visible difference. The right one will help pull water into the skin, improve how it holds onto that hydration, and support overall skin function.
Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol and beta-glucan. These work by attracting and holding water in the skin.
Personally I also love a hydrating mask first thing in the morning following a bad night’s sleep. There is nothing better to help you look and feel more awake.
Try: Aspect Hydrating Mask: a very easy cream based mask to apply for 5-15 mins x1 a day. Will bring life back into tired/dehydrated skin and is so easy to use.
Best Face Mask for Oily Skin
If you’re breaking out or congested… think clarifying.
Well-formulated clarifying masks can help absorb excess oil, reduce congestion, and calm active breakouts without disrupting your barrier.
Ingredients like clay, sulphur and niacinamide can be really effective here when they’re used properly.
However, overusing clay masks, ie. leaving them on until your skin is raw, or pairing them with already strong routines often leads to more oil, more irritation, and a compromised barrier. So you need to use them correctly.
Clarifying masks are best for an oilier skin and when you use them they should leave your skin feeling clearer and more balanced… not tight, squeaky, or stripped. So always follow with your moisturiser.
Try:
- Sulwhasoo Clarifying Peel Off Mask: if you want a brighter complexion, and are an oily skin this is a fun peel off mask that will gently remove impurities and leave your skin feeling soft (just remember to follow with hydration.)
- Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask: the texture of this mask is creamy, rather than drying, is so gentle on the skin and never feels drying. Better for a sensitive skin that wants to absorb excess oil without drying the skin out.
Best Face Mask for Glowing Skin
If you want an at-home glow treatment, this is the place to go.
Exfoliating masks work by removing the buildup of dead skin cells that sit on the surface and make your skin look flat, rough, or uneven. When you use them properly, they can instantly brighten the complexion, smooth texture, and make your skin look and feel glowy and new.
This category usually includes AHAs (like glycolic and lactic acid) to lift away dead skin, BHAs (like salicylic acid) to clear out pores, and enzymes and PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) for a gentler, surface-level exfoliation. But this is also where I see people go a little rogue.
More is not better. Overusing exfoliating masks, layering them with other actives, or leaving them on longer than recommended will quickly ruin your skin.
Always think about what products you already have in your routine. If you’ve exfoliated that day/are about to. And choose your acids based on your skin type.
Try: Cosmedix Elite Awaken: I LOVE this mask. It leaves the skin looking so beautiful. It’s actually PHA-based, meaning it is a very superficial, gentle exfoliation. However, the way it’s combined with hydrating marine extracts and prebiotics, it brightens and just gives your skin the wake-up call it needs. Great for all skin types.
Best Face Mask for Sensitive Skin
If your skin is irritated, sensitised… focus on calming and barrier repair.
If your skin is feeling reactive, stingy, inflamed, or just not tolerating your usual routine, whether that’s from overdoing actives, post-treatment (think laser, peels, or needling), or just life, you need less, not more.
So put down the actives and focus on repair.Calming or barrier repair masks are designed to reduce inflammation and bring the skin back to baseline.
Ingredients like centella, allantoin, oat and aloe help soothe irritation, calm everything down, and ceramides can support your skin barrier, which is honestly the foundation of healthy skin.
Your barrier is what keeps hydration in and irritants out. Meaning when it’s compromised, your skin becomes more sensitive, more reactive, and often harder to treat overall.
Try:
- Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask: this is a beautiful, really calming cica filled overnight mask for skins that are feeling irritated or sensitive. It dries down really well and leaves no residue on the pillow. Use it as the last step in your routine at night.
- La-Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 Hydrating Sheet Mask: IYKYK, this is a great emergency sheet mask for when skin is feeling dull/sensitive/post-procedure. It’s one of those for everything and everyone type of sheet masks and a great one to have on hand when your skin is going through an emergency.
Finally...
I’m always getting asked about face masks in the clinic, but honestly I find people tend to expect too much from them.
It’s important to remember your skincare routine will always come first, and if your skin changes, your face mask should too. A face mask is like the cherry on top of a skincare routine.
Additionally, a face mask will not fix your skin on its own. (Although on a Sunday night I know it can make us feel like we have our life together.)
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