
Ever wanted to ask a beauty editor your burning beauty questions? Now you can with our monthly series Ask Amy!
Every month, Adore's Senior Editor Amy Clark will be answering a customer beauty question. From skincare myths and hair concerns to the best beauty tools and makeup buys, there's no such thing as a dumb beauty question.
This month's question? I’m a retinol and vitamin A skincare beginner, where do I start?
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Vitamin A is the gold standard of active skin care, but it’s really easy to stuff up.
Ask any experienced
retinol user and they'll tell you, the image of skin flaking and peeling like no tomorrow is etched in many of our minds.
But don't be scared, because the
truth about retinol is, while you do need to proceed with caution, it is actually one of the most
tested and effective skincare ingredients we have.
If you want to start using a vitamin A skincare product, like a retinol serum, for the first time, you've come to the right place.
Keep scrolling for a deep dive into more info about
what retinol is, what it’s good for, and how you can start using it… and hopefully debunk some
retinol myths in the process.
What Is Retinol?
One of the most confusing things about retinol is, what's the difference between retinol vs vitamin A?
Technically, retinol is one of the many different types of retinoids, also known as the umbrella term vitamin A.
Here are the most common retinoids found in skin care ranked from gentlest to strongest:
1. Retinol esters (like retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate) are the gentlest, and least potent.
2. Granactive Retinoid is the next step up. It's a newer, gentle retinoid.
3. Retinol is a strong and effective retinoid proven to yield results from concentrations as little as .01%
4. Retinaldehyde or Retinal is a very strong retinoid, and is the closest thing to prescription retinoids you can get over the counter.
5. Prescription vitamin A (e.g. Tretinoin) is a form of vitamin A you can only access with a prescription from a GP or dermatologist.
Listen to this episode of the Skincare School podcast for more detail on the different types of vitamin A.
What Does Retinol Do?
In terms of what it does, retinol works by increasing cell turnover and promoting collagen production.
With consistent use over a 3-6 month period, the skin’s structure changes.
What Is Retinol Good For?
Plumping the skin through collagen and elastin production.
Minimising and preventing wrinkles and other signs of ageing.
Reducing acne,
blackheads, and clogged pores.
Improving skin texture.
Exfoliation and resurfacing.
You can watch our Beauty Editor explain all the retinol benefits for skin in the video below...
So, How Can I Start Using Retinol?
The first step you need to take when you’re trying to figure out how to start using retinol?
Research the right form and strength of vitamin A for your skin type, skin concerns and skill level - rather than buying what everyone else’s using.
If we go back to our list above, retinyl palmitate and granactive retinoids are a good starting point for dry skin and sensitive skin.
Have normal, combination or oily skin? You could start with a low percentage of retinol (.01-.03%) or retinaldehyde.
Once you've chosen your product, start low and slow to avoid irritation by introducing it into your routine once a week.
When you begin using retinol products, you should always follow the directions and work up to more than once a week.
Worried about burning your face off? ‘Buffer’ or ‘sandwich’ your vitamin A by layering a moisturiser like
Medik8 Advanced Night Restore 50ml underneath and/or over the top.
This ceramide-rich moisturiser’s only job is to make sure you don’t impair your skin barrier with your PM vitamin A treatment. So thoughtful!
And always make sure you're wearing and reapplying
an adequate SPF the next day.
Of course, SPF is only one part of sun protection! Always seek shade, and wear sunnies, a hat and protective clothing.
Use sufficient sunscreen for all unprotected areas and reapply sunscreen as directed. Frequent re-application or use in accordance with directions is required for effective sun protection.
Always read the label. Prolonged high-risk sun exposure should be avoided. You know the drill.
Here Is How to Use Retinol for Beginners:
For those with maturing and dry skin types we love to recommend the Alpha-H Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot Serum. This powerful formula contains 14% Glycolic Acid and 1% Granactive Retinoid for some powerful exfoliation and moisture boosting. This serum truly accelerates cell turnover like no other, and also contains Collagen, Peptides and Ferulic acid to hydrate, firm and protect the skin.
Almost everyone will love the
Alpha-H Midnight Reboot Serum 50ml as it expertly works to resurface and reboot the skin.
Apply after cleansing at night and make sure to wash off any excess product the next day.
We recommend adequate sun protection after using Retinol, so try pairing it with the
Alpha-H Protection Plus Daily SPF50+ 50ml.
Another Affordable Retinol Option The Revolution Skincare 0.5% Retinol Serum with Rosehip Seed is an affordable option that is gentle and conditioning on the skin. While it contains a decent concentration of Retinol (0.5%) to promote an even skin texture and increased cell turnover. Rosehip seed oil is a natural source of Vitamin A, that also helps to condition and nourish the skin.
Apply 3-5 drops of this serum as the last step in your evening routine.
As Retinol increases your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, use a sunscreen like the
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Invisible Fluid Facial Sunscreen SPF 50+ , as well as other forms of sun protection, during the day while using this product.
If You Have Oily, Acne Prone Skin This Retinol Will Be Your BFF Retinol is an extremely effective ingredient when it comes to tackling acne, as it helps to balance sebum production and excess oil. The PCA Skin Intensive Clarity Treatment: 0.5% Pure is the perfect candidate for acne prone and excessively oily skin types. To reduce congestion this formula pairs 0.5% Retinol with Niacinamide and Bakuchiol, so over time your skin is clear and acne scarring is reduced.
Oily skin types can usually tolerate Retinol quite readily, but we still recommend building up your tolerance to the
PCA Skin Intensive Clarity Treatment: 0.5% Pure slowly.
Apply a pea sized amount in the evenings after cleansing twice a week and gradually build up to applying it every other night, before applying it nightly (as tolerated).
As always, an SPF like the
mesoestetic mesoprotech melan 130 pigment control 50ml is a necessary part of protecting the skin the next day.
Sensitive skin types need to take baby steps when it comes to adjusting to Vitamin A products. A great place to start is the Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1. This formula contains their lowest strength Retinal designed to be an entry level product. As you become accustomed to this formula you can move up in strengths in the Medik8 Crystal Retinal line.
The
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 30ml is also the perfect starting point for those still a little scared of Retinol.
Apply this lightweight anti-ageing formula after cleansing and before moisturizer. Phase this formula in gradually, using only at night.
Start with twice a week for two weeks, before moving up to alternate nights (or as otherwise tolerated.
Pair it with a sunscreen like the
Medik8 Physical Sunscreen SPF 50+ 60ml the following morning as part of your sun protection.
A Naturally Derived Vitamin A Serum Perfect for Vegans Boost the natural nutrients in your skin with the Mukti Organics Vitamin Booster Vital A Elixir. This mild, but fast acting formula contains Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, which is a natural form of Vitamin A that is less likely to irritate the skin. This skin-loving serum also contains Aloe vera, Rosehip oil and Vitamin E to protect and nourish the skin.
The
Mukti Organics Vital A Elixir is a groovy, natural
retinol serum that is easily tolerated by all skin types.
Use this serum in the evening after cleansing your skin. We recommend combining it with the
Mukti Organics Age Defiance Night Serum 30ml for glowing results.
Use every 1-2 nights and follow with SPF the next day. If you’re looking for a natural and vegan option try the
Hunter Lab SPF 50+ Facial Sunscreen.
Our Go-To Retinol for Normal Skin Types A straightforward Retinol serum we love is the Skinstitut Retinol. It sits at a reasonable price point and contains an intense gel-like formula that makes skin firm and smooth. Generally, it encourages the shedding of dead skin cells to reveal a clearer skin texture over time. This is our pick for normal skin types, as it is effective without being too drying.
The
Skinstitut Retinol 30ml is a night time treatment that can be applied after cleansing.
Apply just a pea sized amount before moisturiser and make sure to apply a sunscreen like the
Skinstitut Age Defence SPF50+ the next day, as the skin will become sensitised.
Start by applying this just twice a week before working up to alternate nights as tolerated.
Retinol is a great ingredient for the under eye, but it has to be formulated for this delicate area. The Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex is a Retinol based eye cream that also contains Vitamin C and Niacinamide. The combination of these ingredients leave the undereye refreshed and brightened, while the inclusion of Retinol improves cell turnover to tackle fine lines and wrinkles.
Start by using on alternate nights for two weeks before increasing usage. Start from the outer corner of the eye, moving inwards and pat in lightly.
Apply after cleansing and before moisturiser. Pair with the
Dermalogica PowerBright Pure Light SPF50 the following day.
The Murad Resurgence Retinol Youth Renewal Serum is a powerful serum that contains three types of Retinol to encourage cell turnover, prevent dryness, and boost efficacy. This gel-cream formula sinks into the skin easily and works for a range of skin types. It’s a gentle formula that over time reveals a glowing complexion.
Apply the
Murad Resurgence Retinol Youth Renewal Serum 30ml at night after cleansing and before moisturiser.
Retinol serums are great at delivering Retinol into the skin effectively. Use regularly and reduce if irritation occurs.
Follow with moisturiser and an SPF like the
Ultra Violette Supreme Screen SPF 50+ Hydrating Facial Sunscreen 75ml (as well as adequate sun protection) when using Retinol regularly.
The Dermalogica Active Clearing Retinol Clearing Oil has a unique oil formula that contains both Salicylic acid and Retinol to deal effectively with breakouts. These ingredients are blended with a trio of nourishing oils such as Argan oil, Jojoba oil, and Rosehip oil to keep the skin hydrated and nourished. This formula helps the skin to remain smooth and renewed.
Apply 6-10 drops of the
Dermalogica Active Clearing Retinol Clearing Oil to freshly cleansed skin at night. Smooth this serum all over the face and neck.
If you have excessively tight or dry skin then follow with a moisturiser, but if you have normal-oily skin this should keep your skin well hydrated.
asap super a+ serum is a lightweight treatment serum that is super gentle, while offering significant results. This vegan formula contains Retinol to stimulate collagen production, along with Vitamin E to protect the skin and Biomimetic Peptide to improve tone and texture. Suitable for all skin types, this formula is truly versatile.
Apply to dry skin after cleansing in the evening after cleansing.
We recommend following up the next day with the
asap SPF50+ Hydrating Defence 100ml, which has a lightweight and hydrating formula.
You can also watch a breakdown of a few of our best-selling retinol serums in the YouTube video below...