All The Ways To Remove Brassiness From Brunette Tones
Jo is a former Adore Beauty staffer and qualified dermal therapist with over decade of experience in the beauty industry.
She co-hosted our award-winning podcast Beauty IQ Uncensored for 4 years, interviewing names like Caroline Hirons, Katie Jane Hughes and Chris Appleton to name a few.
I could not be more equipped to write this article, honestly. I'm a natural medium brunette, I've got quite light balayage ends, and I throw off brassiness like nothin' else. A crisp, clean blonde has always been super difficult for me to maintain - this is my hair after a fresh colour (below). As much as I wanted it to, it did not stay this fresh for very long.
A Bit Of Expert Background On Brassiness...
It's no fault of my colourist. In fact, ever since I first highlighted my hair about 12 years ago, brassiness has always come back to bite me within a matter of weeks, despite using high quality hair products. So, I consulted one of our in-house hairdressers to get to the bottom of it.
"Brassiness tends to occur when an underlying pigment is exposed in the hair - which is essentially what brassiness is," says Adore Beauty's Amelia Porter.
"Red is the undertone of dark brown, red-orange is medium brown, orange is those caramel tones, and of course yellow is blonde. It's almost the raw colour of a hair shaft, which is why it's quite hard to get completely rid of without professional help. But that's where the toning shampoos, conditioners and masques can help to 'glaze' or neutralise those unwanted tones."
According to Amelia, who's a hairdresser by trade, the lighter you go, the less pigment in the hair which is why over-toning can happen, as the hair is more porous and sucks in colour-depositing products. So this is your official warning, if the label says 10 minutes, don't leave that toning treatment in for an hour.
What Causes Hair To Go Brassy?
Typically, brassiness can be caused by a number of factors, but most commonly:
- Quite a common cause is actually mineral build-up which can come from water & even the sun! Mineral build up is a hard one, as unless you're willing to move or even consult the real estate about the pipes - there's not much you can do! But you can use a detox shampoo once every 3-4 weeks to help remove any build-up (Kevin Murphy Maxi.Wash is fab).
- The other thing is using super hot water can actually strip colour which causes the undertones to be exposed (and voila, brassiness!). Super hot water is also quite damaging for the hair shaft in general.
- Your post-colour toner is wearing off from your last colouring session (meaning it's likely time for a trip to your hairdresser, or at at-home toning treatment).
What Can You Do To Stop It?
Well, I won't say there's one fix for everyone (I mean, I've got 35 different hair products in my shower), but I can suggest some options to tackle those orange tones if and when they do decide to surface.
Redken Color Extend Brownlights
This gentle, sulfate-free, colour-deposting blue toning shampoo is designed to keep brunette tones looking fresh AF. Ideal for preventing and neutralising orange and red tones in both highlighted and natural brown hair, this formula cleanses without stripping any colour, and deposits the perfect balance of blue pigments during every wash.
IGK MIXED FEELINGS Leave-In Toning Drops Brunette
This customisable hair toner can be added to any shampoo, conditioner or styling product before applying to the hair, increasing the depth and shine of brunette tones, while maintaining a clean, crisp shade. These drops help to neutralise brassiness and prevent colour fading, while also hydrating and protecting the hair with ingredients like blueberry and artichoke extract and vitamins A, B5, C and E.
Christophe Robin Shade Variation Care – Ash Brown
This unique colour treatment supports and nourishes brown hair, building shine and supporting pigment, whether natural or artificial. It helps to elevate and beautify brown tones, while building shine and body. It helps to reverses the effects of oxidation on hair, and evenly distributes pigment for a seamless, vibrant shade. It contains a bunch of natural extracts, so it acts as a stengthening and hydrating treatment at the same time.
