Peptides: The Collagen Boosting Skincare Ingredient You Need to Know
Yads Cauchi is a Dermal Clinician, Nutritionist (BHSc, MSc) and Beauty Journalist. She's also a mum of four. Evidence based skin health and nutrition are her thing and she works from her own skin clinic based in Canberra - you can find her there, or on Instagram and TikTok @yadscauchiskin.
Peptides are having a moment, they’re everywhere, and people love them because of their ability to promote collagen (and also the Hailey Bieber effect) but mostly collagen.
But are you confused by peptides?
So many of my clients are, so here’s an expert guide on what you need to know.
You see, in the simplest terms, peptides are short chains of amino acids which are tiny little fragments that = the building blocks that make up proteins. (Ie. proteins are made up of peptides.)
And the most well known proteins in our body are keratin, collagen and elastin - think hair, skin and nails - so peptides are what keep skin/hair/nails healthy, plump and firm, but like everything, our bodies produce less of them over time.
Making sense?
So ageing = less peptides which = loss of firmness and bounce from the skin.
Hence, why incorporating peptides into a skincare routine can be beneficial because collagen and elastin are the fundamental building blocks of healthy skin, and peptides?
They help ensure the foundation stays resilient while simultaneously treating laxity, wrinkles and textural changes in the skin because applying them consistently can help stimulate their production.
I also personally love peptides for many of my clients to help with age management concerns that either don’t want to be using a vitamin A, or can’t.
Peptides are safe through pregnancy too and are great ingredients for all skin types.
Peptide Skincare Benefits.
- Help to decrease fine lines.
- Improve your skin barrier - by forming stronger collagen/elastin.
- Can improve and lock in hydration.
- They are not anti-wrinkle injection replacements though - so beware when they are marketed like this.
What Do Peptides Do?
Now peptides in ingredient lists can be confusing, but there are four different types...
- Carrier peptides - these are peptides that carry trace minerals like copper and magnesium. They help boost collagen/firm the skin and help with wound healing.
- Enzyme inhibitor peptides - these slow down the breakdown of collagen. Some are soy derived which help to prevent pigment formation and these are all great for preventing age management concerns.
- Signal peptides - these act the way you expect them to act, like little signals (I like to tell my clients they send texts to the skin) telling the skin to produce more collagen.
Neurotransmitter peptides - like argireline (aka Acetyl Hexapeptide 8) which is one of the most well known, you may have heard of it.
These block the release of the chemical within the neurotransmitter that causes your muscles to contract so your active wrinkles that are created when you move your face slow down.
Anyway, peptides are great, but they are not a miracle do-it-all ingredient and more research is still required for certain types of peptides so not all of them have great data, but they are very easy to combine into a skincare routine alongside other actives like antioxidants and your A, as a multi-focal approach to age management concerns.
Best Peptide Products.
1. Medik8 Liquid Peptides Drone-Targeted Peptide Complex.
An ultra-hydrating peptide based serum that will plump and help give your skin a healthy glow. For the price point I love this peptide serum.
The formula contains a 30% peptide complex that includes matrixyl 3000 (a signaling peptide known for plumping and helping the skin retain moisture), and is formulated with a delivery system that ensures the peptides are being delivered to the skin, alongside strong hydrators.
You truly only need a small amount and it works well with both antioxidant serums in the morning and your A at night.
2. PCA Skin ExLinea Peptide Smoothing Serum.
If you’re keen to invest a little extra and treat yourself this potent peptide serum is for you.
Remember our old friend argireline? The neurotransmitter peptide?
Well this serum contains a high percentage of that so this one is great for fine lines and premature signs of ageing.
3. Ole Henriksen Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturiser.
This is a luxe-feeling, fast absorbing moisturiser and more on the savey end.
This moisturiser is so easy to add into any routine, contains peptides, ceramides, niacinamide, panthenol - the lot.
It would be great for most skins, but best for anyone that is dehydrated with age management concerns.
4. Medik8 Copper PCA Peptides.
This copper peptide serum is still one of my most loved.
Copper peptides are designed to help boost collagen and firm the skin and I loved this serum when I was pregnant.
It also contains a whole bunch of antioxidants so it is great for people that want to fight free radical damage but their skin doesn’t play well with vitamin C.
5. Société Intense Firming Complex.
This serum tingles when it goes on the skin and she is an investment but it truly is a great peptide serum.
It’s the one to go for if you want to help lift and firm the skin as it contains a complex range of peptides and would be great alongside anti-wrinkle appointments and/or if you are keen on holding off getting anti-wrinkle appointments.
Remember consistency = best results.
Want to read more expert skincare advice from Yads? Check out these Beauty IQs:
